Travel story
Stage 4


Motorcycle trip in Peru

Great Venture
Great Venture

I arrived at the border between the cities of Arica in Chile and Tacna in Peru and the crossing between the countries was more complicated. The sun was very, very hot and it was crowded, had many buses carrying Chileans to Peru, the queues were huge at immigration and the Aduana was not different. It took me almost three hours to be released to enter Peru.

The road continued to be excellent, in fact the Ruta Panamericana, besides being beautiful, is very well managed by the countries it crosses. The novelty of the Peruvian stretch was the wind and sand, very intense all the way.

The arrival in Tacna was easy, despite the difficulty finding a hostel with accommodation. I was in a very simple category hospedaje, no water, just a bed and a television in the room.

The next day, I headed to Nazca, travelling almost a thousand kilometers. This part was quite complicated, because the wind was accentuated and brought sand to the track, so I was forced to drive on part of the night, which is dangerous due to the significant number of trucks on the road, which in many instances put me on the shoulder when they were overtaking the track where I was. Tension accompanied me in this stretch.

Nazca is a city which is a little disorganized, it is difficult to find hostels to stay overnight. I asked for help to the local police to direct me and was escorted by the police to the area where there are hostels and settled down. I spent three nights there. I took a flight to see the famous Nazca lines, an expensive ride but it is worth it, I paid 70.00 USD for a flight of less than thirty minutes, but it is intriguing to see these lines. Their design and construction itself provoke questions about the possibility of making them. After that I intended to do a check up on my bike in Lima, my next destination. Chaotic traffic!!

As I am without the GPS maps for Peru, Ecuador and Colombia, it took me a while to find a BMW dealership. When I found it, to my surprise, they were without the scanner, so I go back on my tracks without the check up. The oil was not important because I had thought ahead and had already changed it in Chile. They kindly offered to wash the bike, which was very dirty and I left to find a cheap hostel, complicated task because this city is very expensive too.

I had the help of a dealers’ customer who offered to return to his home, pick up his scooter and guide me until I managed to find a cheap hostel. For this, we rode almost two hours in the chaos of Lima. I thanked for the help and went to my room. Detail, the hostel was of a simple category, but cost $ 120.00, the most expensive so far, but that is what there was.

I left Lima toward Carhuaz, a town at the foot of Huascaran, the highest mountain peak of the tropical zone, reaching more than 6,600 meters. On the way one more surprise, I met four local bike riders. We talked a little bit at a gas station and they asked me to ride a little together! Very cool! They directed me to a very beautiful stretch. By the way, I drove by the low area of the Nevado de Llanganuco. Beautiful mountain with its snowy peak. Wide as well, it has snowed down a grassy area with a light green, which in contrast to the blue sky, provides a wonderful view.
Carhuaz is small and simple, but quiet and picturesque. I stayed in a hostel that cost $ 30.00 per night. Dawn came and I went towards the national park that bears the name of its most famous mountain in the Cordillera Blanca. I ride for over 80 km in a very well preserved park, through valleys and up the mountain, reaching over 4,800 meters. It was cold, the bike’s thermometer came to show 5 ° C, but certainly the thermic sensation was cooler, but worth it, the place is indescribable in words.

It certainly was the most beautiful place I’ve been in my entire life, until now at least. Charming, magical, strong, imposing, of course, wonderful. The view also offers several lagoons and high waterfalls. The air is cold and thin, which further contributes to my short breath! I reach the top possible speed and ride for hours. I went down and had lunch with a can of tuna and a bottle of soda, in the middle of the mountain, surely one of the best meals I’ve ever had.

In Carhuaz, I headed to the coast, passing through Cañon del Pato, dangerous road accompanied by the Rio Santa, which lies between the White and the Black Mountains. This path is off-road for the most part and with some very difficult parts, but impressive. From the dozens of tunnels excavated in rough shape in the rocks, the highest cliff behind the river below, the difficulty to follow the track which goes up, however, it is a unique feeling to come back to the Pacific coast.

I went to Huanchaco, a small town, to see firsthand the Cabalitos of Totora, equipment that the local fishermen use for their craft. Lovely. Then I went to Piura, bound to the border with Ecuador.

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